Ancient-Pig's Photoshop
texture painting tutorial |
Introduction
This tutorial is not so much a 'step-by-step' guide on how I create my textures,
however more of a 'play-by-play' commentary consisting of a breakdown, describing
the phase of the texture I captured at that time. The annotation per frame
consists of a complete explanation of what I did, and why I chose to do
it. If there are 'a million ways to skin a cat'- please think of this as
only one of them...
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Below is the first phase of my texturing - a step I do the same no matter what
kind of texture I'm creating. The starting format is one black background
layer, one crimson red layer, the UV layout of the geometry, and my dark
marking lines on a 4th layer.
When painting alive human skin, I always begin with a base layer of crimson
red as a quick representation of the blood beneath. As I build color layers
on top of this, I feel that the red always shines through, even if very
little, giving skin a plush coloration. 90% of texture creation rests
in 'nailing' the colors, and this step seems to always help me get there.
I use the overlaid UV layout as a guide for my dark (never black, always
dark dark blue) guide lines which show me where the landmarks of the face
are. It's a process of trial and error - repeatedly checking the layout
of the lines on the model until I feel they provide a solid structure
for me to move forward. This particular case took me a handful of times
to get right.
I usually mark sections of the face with lines, and areas that'll receive
lighter tints with a closed shape.
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Below is the second phase of my texturing - coloring in the lines! This stage
required the least amount of thought, as all the thinking had already
been done (drawing lines on the face). All I did here was make a couple
skin tone swatches (a mid and light tone), and paint on top of my 'blood'
layer. I'm now going to refer to that layer as the 'base layer' from here
on out.
As you can see, the crimson is still showing through; more-so in certain
places. Something to remember about working a texture in Photoshop is
that it can always be changed. These color choices aren't binding in any
way- all changing color requires is a simple play with the hue slider.
'Ballpark'n it works.
After the color was laid down, I smoothed it over with the smudge tool. In this
case, to get a true smudge, I went into 'Brushes' --> 'Shape Dynamics',
and unchecked 'Spacing.' This makes the blend tool blend, instead of pushing
color around on the canvas (easier on your computer as well). Albeit,
keeping 'Spacing' on has its uses, but not in this stage of the game.
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Continuing work on the base layer, I stayed within the same colors, and painted up
forms a little bit- mainly on the lighter end of the spectrum. The goal
from here on out was to keep defining and refining. So there was a lot
of painting, and just as much smudging with 'Spacing' turned on, to easily
push forms around.
I have brought out the cranium, and defined the jaw line a bit more. The
SCM muscle of the neck (side of the neck) was hit with the lighter skin
tone, as that is a major landmark of the neck.
The upper and lower eyelids were quickly defined by running the lighter skin
tone over them. Also brought out another area of importance- the fold
of skin on the upper/outside of the eye, where the eyesocket of the skull
recedes back in space.
The bridge, tip, and sides of the nose were brought out with the lighter skin
tone as well. On this part, I wanted to begin that sense of skin being
wrapped directly over bone, which is why I have left the side of the bridge
relatively darker than the rest of the nose. The notsril was quickly tagged
with a dark 'rose' color.
A quick note about the 'rose' color of the nostril: a dominant theme in
my texture creation is to try and keep everything relative. For instance,
I didn't choose the 'rose' color by grabbing a color from my swatch pallette
and adjusting from there. Instead, I eyedropped the pink from the underside
of the nose, brought the value and saturation down, and adjusted slightly
to higher magenta on the hue slider.
I try not to introduce too many brand new things to my textures, as it
makes mine look very random.
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Continuing work on the base layer, I decided the overall appearance was getting too
light in value, so I gave it a little more base by sliding the middle
handle to the right in the 'Levels' window.
'Defining and refining' was still my top priority at this stage. I began bringing
out more landmarks of the skull. Using the 'Polygonal Lasso' tool with
feathering set to 4, I made a selection where the eye socket of the skull
is. While this portion of the base layer was selected, I ran 'Image' -->
'Adjustments' --> 'Hue/Saturation', slid the hue all the way to cyan,
and darkened it a bit. Immediately afterwards, I went to 'Edit' -->
'Fade Hue/Saturation' , set the blending mode to 'multiply' at about 5%.
This whole process darkened the eye socket area a little, and moved the
overall hue relatively to a higher amount of blue.
To further bring out the eyelids and the bag under the eyes, I selected the
mean of the newly created blue'ish skin tone, ran the value slider closer
to black, and sketched them in. To get the lighter color at the top of
the bottom eyelid, I selected the same mean color, ran the value slider
closer to white, upped saturation, and ran the hue slider towards magenta.
The eye socket was defined more by painting a dark skin tone streak at the
'5 o'clock' position of the socket.
I quickly landmarked the nostril and top of the chin by selecting those
areas with the polygonal lasso tool (no feathering). Once those were selected,
I used the smudge tool to push the color to the border of the selection
(outside of nostrils, top of chin). Inversing the selection, and doing
the same was done as well. The purpose of this was to get clearly defined
areas that I can easily see while taking the texture forward.
Smudging color around was done as I saw fit, to further bring out and enhance facial
feature shapes.
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Continuing work on the base layer, I decided the overall appearance was getting too
pink in hue. To remedy this, I went in to the 'hue/saturation' window
and slid the hue bar closer to yellow.
The ear was quickly defined by using the same light and dark skin tones I
started the texture with. These initial hues are more to the magenta end
of the spectrum, and since I just ran the base layer closer to yellow,
it will make for some subtle variation.
Other areas of the texture were lightened by using the light skin tone- mainly
on the jawline and eye sockets. The jaw was reading as too dark and saturated
(probably from the previous levels adjustment), and the eye was reading
like my dude just got dealt a 'shiner.' These areas were painted over
with the airbrush set to a low (5-10%) opacity, as to allow old color
to show through for more richness.
After stepping back from the monitor and noticing that the texture was consisting
predominantly of reds and yellows, I decided to briefly stray from keeping
it relative. I ran up a light olive green color, and began adding it to
some of the receded areas, using the air brush set to a low opactiy, and
blending it in further with the smudge tool afterwards. Areas to note
are the jaw, the front of the neck, the base of the skull at the back
of the head, the inner ear, under the center of the nose, under the brow
between the eyesoket and nose, the nostril, and just over the top of the
upper eyelid.
The lips received a bit more attention: I defined the bottom of the lower
lip with a stroke of the light skin tone. The same was done to the top
of the upper lip, to define where that form changes curve from the lip
to the face.
A new layer was made on top of the base layer I had been working on! With
the polygonal lasso tool (no feathering), I outlined the shape of the
upper lip and filled it 100% opacity with a dark and saturated red. This
layer was set to multiply, and the opacity of the layer set very low,
as to just slightly darken the upper lip to give the illusion that it
recedes into the mouth. This also makes a handy selection layer for later
on, in case you are doing work around the upper lip and don't want to
effect it (inverse selection!).
The inside of the nostril was painted up a bit with the light skin tone, to
make it appear that it recedes up into the skull.
Further smudging was done over the whole texture to further enhance form as I
saw fit.
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The first step I made here was to create a subtle overlay layer on the very
top of the layer stack. This layer is nothing more than an even grain
layer, meant to lend a subtle sense of tactility, and break-up the 'too
smooth' look of straight painting. If color is the 'cake' of creating
a believeable surface, surface detail is what makes the' icing'.
The method for creating this layer is real simple. Make a layer on top of
everything, and fill it 100% with a gray. Run a 'filter' --> 'noise'
--> 'add noise.' I set my options to 'Gaussian' and 'monochrome.' The
blending mode of this layer was set to overlay, and I dialed the layer's
opacity down in the neighborhood of 5%.
Next, I wanted to start bringing in some more color to the face. I decided to
start with a little red in the cheeks and nose. I created a layer over
the base layer, and painted a dark red over the cheeks and nose at 100%
opacity. After smudging it around in those areas for a short while, I
set the layer blend mode to 'soft light', and dialed down the layer opacity
to somewhere around 8%. Keeping elements like this on seperate (but manageable)
layers allows for easy adjustments down the road.
On that same note, I did the exact same thing with the forehead; except painted
a mustard yellow instead of a dark red.
Next, I created an additional layer on top of the two soft light layers. On
this, I painted a royal blue at 100% opacity on the beard and cranium
area. I painted this at 100% opactiy so I could easily discern where the
beard and hair lines were appearing on the model as I checked it in the
viewport. Once I was satisfied with the placement, I set the layer blend
mode to 'multiply', and dialed down the opacity to around 6%.
The blue multiply layer is acting as a beard coloration layer. It needed to
feel a little more 'scruffy'- so I ctrl+left mouse clicked the newly created
multiply layer, created a layer on top of that and made another noise
layer (using the same method as before: fill it with gray, go to filter
--> noise--> etc..). This layer was also set to multiply, and the
opacity at around 10%.
The theory behind my choice of coloration is pretty bland for this example.
I've noticed that some caucasian'esque skin types have a distinct yellow,
red, blue (forehead, cheeks/nose, beard) color scheme, so I'm just mimicing
that for this example.
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Continuing work on the base layer, I smudged a few areas around bring out form. The
first area I hit was the inside of the eye socket: I smudged a bit more
shape into the underside of the brow, and made one strong smudge down
the eye socket shape between the punctum and nose.
The second area I hit was the underside of the neck- an area that had been
ignored a bit, was coming off as too dark. I made a quick spray with the
lighter skin tone, and evened it out with some play from the smudge tool.
Continuing work in this area on the base layer, I used the polygonal lasso tool (at
4px feathering) to make a selection encompassing the jaw-line shape, from
the bottom of the ear to the underside of the chin. I sampled the dark
rose color from the upper lip, and sprayed the selected jaw area with
a low opacity air brush.
On the multiply layer being used to add red hues to the cheeks and nose,
I ran that same color over the upper portion of the ear. This could simulate
blood vessels close to the surface of the skin, or burning from the sun
(area with sensitive skin), etc...
I wanted to introduce a light sheen to the skin texture. Even though this
texture would be used in conjunction with a specular map, I felt a light
sheen would mix up the color a bit more, and give the skin surface a greater
amount of tactility. To do this, I created a layer at the top of the stack
and set the blend mode to 'soft light.' The airbrushed was used with a
soft edge brush and low opacity, with a sky blue hue assigned. I lightly
brushed over the brow, cheeks, nose, and neck, where I thought light contact
would be the most prominent. This layer was smudged around until I saw
fit, and then I moved on...
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At this stage I could see that the macro-structure of the texture was essentially
complete. Applying the texture to the model and slightly tweaking UV's
here and there (mainly around the nostrils and eyelids), I could see that
the texture complimented my geometry's form well, and read like a human
being. From here on out, it's all detail and refinement.
Something that had been bugging me was the blurriness of the hair line. I went into
the multiply layer that has the dark blue stubble color, and solidified
the hair line with the smudge tool against a feathered selection. The
same was done to the stubble around the lips.
On the base layer, I airbrushed a quick soft stroke of dark color on the
upper portion of the brow, right at the base of the forehead. This was
to signify where the brow protrudes slightly outward from the head. Using
the smudge tool, I shaped it as needed, focused on giving a greater falloff
where the dark shade meets the forehead since the change in shape is much
less severe there.
Another layer was created just above the base layer. The layer blend mode was
set to 'color', and a hard magenta was painted directly on top of the
lips. I wanted to bring the lip color away from a brown, and more into
the neighborhood of a dark pink. The great thing about making this adjustment
on another layer is, if I want to make further color adjustments to this
region down the road, all I have to do is play with that one layer rather
than destroy the integrity of the painting on the base layer.
Sampling the dark red hue just inside the nostril, I painted crease/crack lines
on the lips. What I was envisioning at this stage was to pretend that
I was tracing the shape of the lips as if on a wire mesh. This detail
was done on another layer created underneath the lip color layer, to keep
color changes consistent down the road. I paid special attention to the
criss-cross patterns that occur on some people's lips where the lower
lip falls off at the bottom. After the lines were painted, I went in with
the smudge and erase tool to make them less uniform.
Once the lines were complete, I made a copy of the lip line layer, inversed
it, set it to 'soft light', and lowered the opacity. I then moved the
entire layer to the right by one pixel's distance. This was an easy way
to simulate a highlight to the cracks I just made. Further finessing was done on the 'soft light' layer, using the airbrush
at a low opacity, set to a sky blue color.
A 'multiply' layer was created, and set to a relatively low opacity. I selected
a dark, cold blue from my palette (the layer is 'multiply' - so it'll
change the color according to the color underneath. Still keeping things
relative
), and painted in shadows underneath the nose, lower lip,
corner of the mouth, and between the eye and nose. These shadows were
kept faint, so as not to appear too domineering 'in-game'. It would look
funny if there were a hard light coming from below, but the figure had
a dark, hard shadow underneath his nose.
This layer was made to keep the form balanced. Remember, I made a 'soft light'
layer for the skin sheen, where I thought light would be most apparent
once it hit the model in a default environment. This layer is for where
I think the light will not hit. It accentuates the form...
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As I continued to work on this texture, my wife happened to walk in. Upon
glancing at the progress I had made, she remarked 'he looks like he's
wearing lipstick.' Good thing I had set the lip color on a seperate layer!
All I had to do was delete that layer, and it was fixed.
Well
now that she's had her say, back to work! I wanted to even out the tones
in the scalp, as the bulk of the form for this model will be portrayed
via the in-game lighting. I quickly airbrushed the light skin tone over
that region of the base layer, and smoothed it over with the smudge tool
(no spacing).
The
next step I took was finalizing the ear. The macro-forms were already
laid down, but I could tell they needed a little adjustment. I used the
smudge tool (spacing on) to push and pull the geography of the inner ear
into shape - thickening areas, and sharpening areas. Once that was complete,
I used a soft edge brush and painted areas a light sky blue on the soft
light layer used for skin sheen. The main item I focused on while doing
this was thinking about where light would be hitting these folding surfaces,
and where it would be reflecting off the waxy ones. The important thing
to get away from when painting an ear is thinking of it as a bunch of
lines. You need to think of it as volumes folding over each other. Having
a visual reference at hand helps immensely (Google!).
Final touches to the ear were made with the burn tool: I acentuated the external
auditory canal, and ran a polygonal lassoo along the inner edge of the
helix; giving it a quick once-over with the burn tool to make it stand
out.
I began painting fine wrinkles around the face; first by marking them off
with thick, dark lines on a temporary layer. After going back and forth
between my 3d app and Photoshop, determining the lines were in the right
spots, I ran the opacity of that layer down to 10% to use as a guide for
painting.
I created a new layer, and set the blending options to 'Bevel and Emboss'
(setting as shown below). I sampled a deep red from the ear, and using
the airbrush, painted thin lines that followed the contours of the face.
Starting at the corner of the eye, swooping out and up across the forehead,
the top of the chin, and cross hatching on the neck. I dialed down the
layer's opacity to 17%, and continued painting faint lines following the
same patterns. Fine tuning with some smudges, I called the wrinkles 'done.'
Since this skin depicts a fairly young man, he wouldn't have deep set wrinkles
in his skin just yet. If I were painting an older person, I would not
use this bevel/emboss technique, but would rather paint the larger wrinkle
forms directly on to the base layer.
I adjusted the base layer slightly higher on the magenta side.
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I created another 'Bevel and Emboss' layer for the veins at the temple of
the head using settings similar to those found on the previous page. Picking
a deep green for the vein color, I used a hard edged brush and drew the
squiggly lines at the temple. After dialing this layer down to a lower
opacity, I went into those lines with the eraser and smudge tool (spacing
on) to give them the appearance of getting nearer/farther from the surface
of the skin. I also made a small vein on the ear.
Another layer was created for painting the eyebrow. Using a soft edged brush,
I painted a solid dark brown to mark where the eyebrow would go. After
smudging (spacing on) the shape around a bit, once I was satisfied witht
he placement, I ran the opacity of this layer down to 10%.
I create my eyebrows in multiple layers. After studying them for a bit (do
I have a life?), I could see that they are made of specific sections of
differing directional hair flow. Look at your eyebrows in the mirror,
and notice how some hairs flow directly in the line of the brow, others
opposite of this, and some go straight up.
Starting on a new layer, I used a hard edged brush equipped with a dark brown color
to paint the small hairs that go straight up, closest to the nose. Creating
a new layer on top of that, I painted hairs that went away from the nose
at a '10 o' clock' direction. Creating a layer on top of that, I painted
'wispy' hairs that flowed perpendicular to the nose- almost pointing straight
to the ear. On a new layer underneath all these, I lightly painted faint
hairs that flow around the more prominent hairs of the eyebrow.
That's my eyebrow in a nutshell... the diagram below may explain it better. In
that example, each layer is indicated by a distinct color:
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Imperfections
are what makes the skin come to life! It's a shame this doesn't happen
until the end- all the people who have glanced at your work in progress
as they walk by probably think 'this guy sucks.' But when this stage of
the texture comes into play, people usually stop and dish out the compliments.
I created the freckling in 3 layers - one for the large blotches, a second
for the medium-sized harder edged blotches, and a third for the distinctly
round freckles.
For the first and second layers, I filled each layer in 100% with a brown-
the first layer's brown had more red, and the second had more yellow.
For both layers, I ran a 'Filter' --> 'Artistic' --> 'Sponge', playing
with the various settings to get the shapes I desired. From there, I ran
the opacity down on both layers, and began erasing areas away with a large-sized,
soft eraser brush.
For the third layer, I simply selected a burgundy color found on the texture
map, used a hard round brush, and mouse-clicked all over the texture.
Once that was done, I dialed the opacity of the layer down, and began
erasing, the same as the previous two layers.
It's easy enough to say, 'well he cheated by using filters.'
Fair enough, however the hard part of creating this aspect of the texture is
in knowing exactly what I need to get the desired effect. It's simple
to run filters on a painting all day long, but to utilize them to produce
an effect you have 100% control over, is something much more than 'cheating.'
To heighten the illusion of 'fair' skin, I ran up the opacity of the redness
layer for the cheeks, ear, and nose.
The base layer was hue shifted more to yellow.
I created a new layer and airbrushed a starting shape for the beard. After
smudging the shape around a bit, I began the beard painting process as
described below.
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| Loosely
painted directional lines with a soft edged brush equipped with a dark,
mustard color. These lines were smoothed over with the smudge tool (spacing
on) set to 100% (large sized soft brush) |
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| On
the same layer, I painted finer lines- introducing desaturated pinks and
greens to he mix. These lines were smoothed over with the smudge tool (spacing
on) set to 100% (medium sized soft brush) |
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| On
the same layer, I painted 1 pixel lines with a very desaturated midtone
violet.These lines were smoothed over with the smudge tool (spacing on)
set to 50% (1px sized brush). On a new layer beneath the beard layer, I
speckled bits of dark green to give a sense of depth (hue and value). |
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The final result is seen below.
Thank you for taking the time to read this synopsis on texture creation. I hope
these pages have introduced you to new techniques that will prompt you
to explore methods of your own.
Your thoughts? Requests? Hate mail? You can contact me here: info@pig-brain.com
Please stop by my homepage - www.Pig-Brain.com
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